Froze My Ass Off Again

The last couple of days have been damn cold at dawn. Air around 40 degrees and moderate off shores. Yesterday was better than today, for sure. I don't think there was more than two waves that broke in the first 45 minutes. Even though I brought the big board I still struggled getting into these soft mushballs. So given all that; why did I stay out till 8:00?!?  I'm going to pass on tomorrow. Heading up to SF on Thursday and Friday; so it'll be Saturday before I can hit it again. I should be warmed up by then.

Don't let the picture fool you, that wave is only thigh high.