There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Surfing With Dolphins

Rich, Jeff and I were the only ones in the water for the first hour this morning during which time a pod of very active dolphins hung around with us for almost half an hour. There had to be 8 or 10 of them; mostly little ones. It was like being in the pool at Sea World. It would have been nice to have brought the GoPro today just for that; next time. Wave wise there was an occasional chest high set for the three of us to share which made it nice.
Jeff on his finless Hot Curl

Tuesday, July 29, 2014


Small waist to chest high runners. Rob caught the only head high wave that I saw. Earlier he was graciously invited to participate in fisticuffs on the beach by a visitor with an especially nasty attitude. I saw the whole thing. He was upset because Rob had position on him for a left and he thought he was going to go right from way behind the peak, totally unmake-able. What is wrong with people? How can you possibly get that pissed off when the waves are small and you’re not in position for the wave anyway. I loathe these people for harshin' the vibe. If we never see him again it’ll be too soon :-]

Douglas - Soul Surfer

Monday, July 28, 2014

One Of Those Days

Paddled out at dawn.  73° air and 70° water with chest high waves. A little wonky but super glassy.  I caught a handful of waves during a 15 minute flurry right after I paddled out.  After that, for some reason, my rhythm was off and I really struggled to get waves.  So I moved up the point to just go for the lefts in an effort to change things up.  That was somewhat successful (lots of close outs), but I caught a really nice long left to go in on. Better than nuttin’.

Sunday, July 27, 2014

Tropical Paradise

Super warm and balmy this morning; but made the wrong choice on wetsuits.  Wore my 3/2 cuz I couldn't find my 2mm. Found it when I got home in the back seat of my truck. I was roasting all morning. Anyway, waves were shoulder high and playful. But the crowd made you work for it :-)
It's the Brett show today (This sequence and on the video)