There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Tuesday, September 30, 2014

6 - 12

6 - 12 inches bigger than yesterday. But still only a 3 on the 10 point scale; only cuz the conditions were perfect.

Monday, September 29, 2014

Took A Pass On The Weekend

Had a few munchkins over on Sat & Sun who required my full attention:

Today, against my better judgement, I hit it even though the buoys were only 1.3 and 1.0. Then I paddled out even though I didn't see anything over belly high. The conditions were epic. The waves were really weak, but you can't score if you don't go. Maybe tomorrow....

As soon as I saw 4 longboarders suiting up,
I knew it was time to go.

Friday, September 26, 2014

I Was Going No Matter What

Got tired of waking up at 5:00 to nothing on the buoys and turning over to sleep in. Today I didn't look and just went like we used to in the good ol' days.  A good amount of windswell in the water and if you caught the right one.....

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

1.3 On The Buoys

Looks like a good opportunity to get caught up at work.
This dude was chillin on my wetsuit the other day. At about 5" long it's about the biggest one I've ever seen.

Sunday, September 21, 2014

Still Some Swell In The Water

Still a few shoulder high sets here and there.  Especially the ones that swung into the bay.