There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Let's Take The Delorean Out

1940's

1954

1960

1996

San Clemente Pier Parking 1928

1951

Trestles 1960's Board Confiscation - I Dig That White Board

1960 Something
Not Sure When This Add Was Run

Sunday, February 26, 2012

I'm Told I Didn't Miss Much Today

Woke up this morning with my back feeling pretty good. Unfortunately, I've got a scratchy throat. So I tried to be productive today:
Three boards worth

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Tiger Balm And Advil

Stayed home this morning to rest my aching back. Today's pics are courtesy of Steve.

Friday, February 24, 2012

A Few Nice Little Nuggets This Morning


Paddled out at 6am all by my lonesome to shoulder high + waves.  The air wasn’t that cold but I wore the hood anyway (no more exostosis for me).   Caught a bunch of fun ones until I tweaked my back towards the end of the session, it was starting to get crowded anyway.     




Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Rad!

Bumped into my buddy Mike on the way up from my last "session" on Tuesday.  He was carrying this rad Simmons inspired 9' something longboard.  I would love to try this board sometime.  Snagged the pics below from Mike's blog. I've got a similar 7'6" Terry Martin that I ride when it's small; it's a blast.


My 7'6" Terry Martin with Sonny my guard pug. 





Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Would Of, Could Of, Should Of


I could have worked out, I could have gone for a run, I could have taken my wife out for breakfast, I could have gone to work early (right) or I could have just slept in.   Instead I got up at the crack, checked the buoys and decided there was enough there to go for it.  So I suited up in the garage, drove down to you know where and paddled out with Dave into knee to waist high, inconsistent, freezing zippers.   I need a do over.
Garcia




Monday, February 20, 2012

A Bit Smaller Today

But still pretty fun.  Mostly chest high waves with a cold offshore flow.  Today was more crowded than the weekend for some reason.  Only surfed for an hour and a half; just too tired from the last three days. Caught a long one all the way to the sand and called it a morning.




I hate when that happens


Sunday, February 19, 2012

Lucky - Third Day In A Row

Third day with fun chest to head high waves and light crowds.  Lovin' it.





Saturday, February 18, 2012

It Was A Cold Morning

Chest to head high zippers again today.  But a whole lot colder than yesterday, the air was 40˚, water was 58˚ or so, and the wind was steady offshore.  The zipper on my wetsuit broke but I paddled out anyway.  Didn't really make much of a difference except when I duck dived, so I avoided that. The bay was the way today for me, a little less consistent but a lot longer rides. Caught one wave that I had to compete with a pelican, he stayed 5 -10 feet in front of me the whole way and grinning at me too.








Friday, February 17, 2012

Changes

Here's a picture of Trestles from the 70's and below it from today.   Where did all the plant life go?


That'll Do

Chest to head high this morning with only a handful of guys out.   Surfed for 3 hours; dead tired.  The bay was really turning on towards the end of the session.





That's Kao in front