I haven't surfed in 3 weeks. I got all excited this morning when I saw 2.0 on the O-side buoy and I wasn't traveling, sick or committed to going into work early. By the time I reached the parking lot it had backed down to 1.6. The primary swell was out of the WNW which usually means not too much juice and soft shoulders. I really struggled the first hour even catching a decent wave, it was so small. At 7:00 it seemed to pick up and I caught a few nice ones before I had to leave for an 8:00 call. I was a little late for the call but so was everybody else; typical, I'm glad I didn't hurry too much. Did I mention that it was damn cold this morning?
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