There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Sunday, April 30, 2017

Leeanne's Medical Fund

Leanne is the young lady that was injured by the shark at churches yesterday. She has a long road ahead, you can help with her recovery here: 

I'm Sure You've Heard By Now

There are sharks in the Ocean!
We had a shark attack at Churches yesterday.
Then this morning Greg, Mark and Rich were chased out of the water too! See video and social media screen grabs below:

Thursday, April 27, 2017


So how depressing is it to be grounded when there has be non-stop waves. You know the answer.
I had my first physical therapy appointment yesterday. The therapist let me know that I can expect to be back in the water fully recovered around the first week of July.
I then asked about prone surfing (aka: boogie board, paipo board, speed bump, dick dragger) and he said lets talk about it in 3 - 4 weeks.
In the meantime, once I'm off the crutches, I plan to come down regularly with my SLR and document the goings on.

One of my favorite waves:

Sunday, April 23, 2017

Watching, Judging....

I've literally been sitting on my ass for two weeks in pain. It's like having a muscle cramp that won't go away. It's getting better day by day and I start physical therapy next Wednesday. But my right calf is still swollen (1.5X) and a lot of the swelling has descended into my ankle thanks to gravity. Meanwhile this has been happening:










Sunday, April 16, 2017

Down Time

Well, I saw an Orthopedic surgeon Friday and have been diagnosed with a stage 2 calf muscle tear. I'm looking at 6-12 weeks recovery with PT 3X per week. So hopefully, sometime in June I'll be back in action. Maybe I'll get lucky and they'll let me do some prone wave riding on a paipo board or something in a few weeks. Meanwhile, I have the best seat in the house for Bells.

Monday, April 10, 2017

Too Soon

Tried to surf today. But all I managed to do is aggravate the injury after only 3 waves. This is gonna take some time.
Pink moon

Friday, April 7, 2017

Good News

I got good news today from the doctor. The x-rays show no tear in the lateral meniscus. Perfectly normal knee for a old fart who did too much running in his youth. Looks like I'll be back in action in a week or so. Hopefully, there's still some good waves around, next week's forecast looks goooood! Yew!

As Good As It Gets

That was the report this morning from Steve.
It'll be 4 or 5 days before I'll be in a position to surf again; I hope.
Surfline screen grab

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

Darn Darn Darny Darn

Not Another Injury!?!
I pulled a muscle in my right calf on my last wave in today. This is going to take a couple of days (minimum) to get over; I'm really busy at work so I can't go again till Saturday anyway.  I had a good morning up until then. The waves were shoulder high, wind offshore and water on a warming trend. Here we have Fraser on a good one: