There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Monday, April 15, 2019

Last Saturday

Had a real busy weekend after Saturday's sesh and never got around to posting. Not much to report for myself as I couldn't buy a wave for some reason during my two hour effort. I hate when that happens!
It was small and little inconsistent. So I ended up with only a handful of waves. Here's Brady ripping the top off of one.

Friday, April 12, 2019

I've Been Remiss

I've been remiss in posting on my blog. I surfed 4 times since my last post; including today.

Today we had windswell, lots of windswell, a heavy drift and hard to catch waves. I only stayed out a little over an hour and only caught 3 waves. But who's counting....

April 5th:

April 7th (forgot my camera so you get to see an old man surf a small wave):

April 8th:

Friday, March 29, 2019

The Bay Was The Way

Spent a little time on the point and then moved into the bay. Much better in the Bay. There was a small background groundswell out of the SSW and a short period windswell on top of it. The double-ups were fun. Did I mention that it was freezing a** cold this morning? Water was 57⁰ and the air was 48⁰. Wind was steady off shore at about 5-7 knots. I'm typing this at noon and I'm still cold. Gonna probably go later in the day tomorrow. Burrrr.

My Grandson

A quick update on my grandson, Tripp. This is his life now:

  • Confined to the house, keeping busy building Lego’s and doing homework.
  • Home schooling 3 days a week
  • Speech Therapy at home once a week (he also has a minor auditory processing disorder)
  • He takes 8 oral medications throughout the day. (He can recite them all to you and what time of day he needs to take what).
  • Two blood tests per week (Mondays and Thursdays)
  • Platelet and blood transfusions, as needed, after the blood test results.
He’s an expert in how to draw blood now. He watches closely and tells the nurses where the best place to poke is.
Tripp had a rough week. He had a couple of days of upset stomach and all that goes with it. But he’s back to normal today.
He’s gained 8 pounds in the last month and the dark circles under his eyes are gone.
Slow and Steady. Prognosis is good, but it will take 6 months to a year.
Heading back out to Georgia in May for a couple of weeks. 

Wednesday, March 27, 2019

Extreme Inconsistency

Lots of sitting around this morning and the only good wave I caught I had to share with someone. Got tired of waiting, so I took a knee high wave in. Then when I'm on the beach taking a few pics a nice 4 wave set rolls through. Oh well, there's always tomorrow (or Friday in my case).