There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Tuesday, June 20, 2017

Neglect

I've been totally neglecting this blog only because I have not been given clearance to surf. I feel like I can but I don't want to make that mistake again. I try not to watch the cam and keep myself busy doing other things (currently working on a bathroom remodel at home) so I don't lament on what I'm missing. I'm still doing PT 3X per week and eating right. I have a doctor's appointment on Friday, so we will see. Injuries suck, just ask Tom Mohler who just happened to show up at PT with back problems yesterday. He's been out for a month. I need to get back into some of this:

Friday, June 9, 2017

RIP - Matt "Slim" Doherty

I first met Matt when I was moving into my house in San Juan Capistrano some 30 years ago. He was about 18 years old at the time. He came over bare footed, shirtless and with a cigarette in hand on a cool day in January. He introduced himself and asked if I need any help. I had several brothers helping so I declined the offer, he looked a little shady anyway. He said if I ever needed anything to let him know, he lived up the street a few houses with his mom and sister. About 10 years later he moved in across the street.
To say he was a wild man would be an understatement. I have stories, everyone that knew him has some too. He was always up to something. He was a fisherman, a hunter, a flier of a homemade helicopters (LOL) and a self-taught mechanic. He shared his catch with us on many an occasion.
He had a shop in the surf ghetto: A&M Power Tool Repair. If you own a surfboard that was manufactured in the ghetto then I can guarantee he maintained all the equipment used to make that surfboard from shaping machines, routers, planers and filters systems. Matt didn't surf but he knew everyone in the industry there on Los Obreros Lane and most of the pros that wandered through. He had nicknames for everyone, none that will be repeated here (LOL).
Matt had his faults, just like all us humans. But he had a heart of gold and would give a stranger the shirt off his back (if he was wearing one). When my in-laws lived with us he became fast friends with my Father-in-law and they would talk right wing politics on the sidewalk in front of my house; my Father-in-law in a wheel-chair and Matt leaning against the light pole without a shirt on. He also took an interest in my Grandson and used to let him play with his RC car.
Sadly, a few days after his birthday (we shared the same birthday) he took his own life. I won't go into the details but I think this could have been avoided.
I'm going to miss hearing his loud voice carry into our bedroom widows into the wee hours of the night while he holds court with his buddies in the front patio of his home.
Slim is on the right


Inside Slim's shop

Timmy Patterson, Scott Metzner, Slim and Gary Stark


I drove by the shop last night





My favorite T shirt


Link to OC Weekly article featuring Slim

Thursday, June 1, 2017

49

Yup, I first picked up a surfboard 49 years ago today at the tender age of 13. How do I know that? Because it's also my birthday. This will be the first birthday in a long time where I didn't go surfing. But I'm working hard at physical therapy to get back at it by July.
My new eating habits have shown some really good results - I'm down 18 pounds now and have broken the 200 pound barrier. I hope to drop another 10 before I'm back in the water.

Thanks for the pic Ruben!

Monday, May 22, 2017

Yesterday

Finally, I was able to make it down to the beach after 6 weeks, but just to take pictures. I was doing ok until the fog rolled in. Then I had a hard time focusing the camera. Need to better understand my Cannon Rebel. Total kook.

Here's Mike and Bane before the fog:



Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Not Missing Much

The last 10 days or so have been pretty sucky. Eddy conditions and minimal swell; not that it matters for me.
Making some good progress in physical therapy. Finally the swelling is subsiding and I'm walking normally. Another month or so and I should be back in action.
Hope the waves pick up for you guys between now and then.

Thursday, May 11, 2017

Survey Said: Boring

No surfing, no real exercise (except PT), just laying around with my leg up on ice.

So I put myself on a diet just so I'm not regulated to a longboard when I get back in water in July. I needed to do this for a long time anyway.

No I'm not counting calories and no I'm not doing any of the fad diets out there. I'm just eating real food, no snacking and absolutely nothing out of a box or a bag. I'm also fasting once or twice a week for 24 hours. It's weird, I'm never hungry now. No cravings, not depriving myself and no worries if I skip a meal. For instance, this morning I had 2 eggs and bacon with coffee, then for lunch I had an avocado, a banana, an orange and an apple, later tonight it's lean and green and blueberries with real whipped cream for dessert.

I once heard someone say that the food you eat can be either the safest and most powerful form of medicine or the slowest form of poison. I'm beginning to believe it, most of my joint pain has disappeared.

So far, so good. I've dropped 12 pounds. My goal is to drop another 10 or 15 before I'm back in the water.

This book really motivated me: "The Obesity Code: Unlocking the Secrets ofWeight Loss" by Jason Fung, Timothy Noakes   

Meanwhile, down at the beach we've got this $#!+ going on:

Wednesday, May 3, 2017

Today's Shark Sighting

At lowers around 7:30 this morning. A little too close for comfort.

New Shark Repellent: 


Tuesday, May 2, 2017

Shark!!!!

What can I say. I'm injured and I can't surf. So the current hysteria on shark attacks and shark sightings at Trestles is a bit removed for me. Had I not been injured during this time I guarantee I would be in the line-up with everyone else. The difference for me is I would rely on my engineering background and take refuge in the statistics on shark attacks. The odds of getting attacked and killed by a shark in my lifetime are 1 in 3,748,067. (You are more likely to die from fireworks (1 in 340,733), lightning (1 in 79,746), drowning (1 in 1,134), a car accident (1 in 84), stroke (1 in 24), or heart disease (1 in 5)). Granted the data I looked at did not take into account the number of hours a typical surfer like me spends in the water verses the general public. But even if you cut the odds in half that's still 1 in 1,874,033.

So, just go surfing. Recent events aside the odds are still in your favor.

Or, if you can't stop thinking about the man in the grey suit quit surfing an take up something safe like tiddlywinks. Wait!?! I wonder what the odds are of eye injury playing tiddlywinks......

 duunnn dunnn... duuuunnnn duun... duuunnnnnnnn dun dun dun dun dun dun dun dun dun dun dunnnnnnnnnnn dunnnn


Monday, May 1, 2017

Clearly This Is Untenable

The current plan is to bury 3.6 million pounds of nuclear waste yards from the beach in one of the most densely populated and earthquake prone areas of the country. What could go wrong?

Never Get Tired of Watching DR

Sunday, April 30, 2017

Leeanne's Medical Fund

Leanne is the young lady that was injured by the shark at churches yesterday. She has a long road ahead, you can help with her recovery here: 


I'm Sure You've Heard By Now

There are sharks in the Ocean!
We had a shark attack at Churches yesterday.
Then this morning Greg, Mark and Rich were chased out of the water too! See video and social media screen grabs below:





Thursday, April 27, 2017

Update

So how depressing is it to be grounded when there has be non-stop waves. You know the answer.
I had my first physical therapy appointment yesterday. The therapist let me know that I can expect to be back in the water fully recovered around the first week of July.
July!?!
I then asked about prone surfing (aka: boogie board, paipo board, speed bump, dick dragger) and he said lets talk about it in 3 - 4 weeks.
In the meantime, once I'm off the crutches, I plan to come down regularly with my SLR and document the goings on.

One of my favorite waves:

Sunday, April 23, 2017

Watching, Judging....

I've literally been sitting on my ass for two weeks in pain. It's like having a muscle cramp that won't go away. It's getting better day by day and I start physical therapy next Wednesday. But my right calf is still swollen (1.5X) and a lot of the swelling has descended into my ankle thanks to gravity. Meanwhile this has been happening:
Troy

Tom

Phil

Bane

Dave

Fred

Rich

Steve

Frank

JD

Sunday, April 16, 2017

Down Time

Well, I saw an Orthopedic surgeon Friday and have been diagnosed with a stage 2 calf muscle tear. I'm looking at 6-12 weeks recovery with PT 3X per week. So hopefully, sometime in June I'll be back in action. Maybe I'll get lucky and they'll let me do some prone wave riding on a paipo board or something in a few weeks. Meanwhile, I have the best seat in the house for Bells.

Monday, April 10, 2017

Too Soon

Tried to surf today. But all I managed to do is aggravate the injury after only 3 waves. This is gonna take some time.
Pink moon