There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Monday, May 22, 2017


Finally, I was able to make it down to the beach after 6 weeks, but just to take pictures. I was doing ok until the fog rolled in. Then I had a hard time focusing the camera. Need to better understand my Cannon Rebel. Total kook.

Here's Mike and Bane before the fog:

Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Not Missing Much

The last 10 days or so have been pretty sucky. Eddy conditions and minimal swell; not that it matters for me.
Making some good progress in physical therapy. Finally the swelling is subsiding and I'm walking normally. Another month or so and I should be back in action.
Hope the waves pick up for you guys between now and then.

Thursday, May 11, 2017

Survey Said: Boring

No surfing, no real exercise (except PT), just laying around with my leg up on ice.

So I put myself on a diet just so I'm not regulated to a longboard when I get back in water in July. I needed to do this for a long time anyway.

No I'm not counting calories and no I'm not doing any of the fad diets out there. I'm just eating real food, no snacking and absolutely nothing out of a box or a bag. I'm also fasting once or twice a week for 24 hours. It's weird, I'm never hungry now. No cravings, not depriving myself and no worries if I skip a meal. For instance, this morning I had 2 eggs and bacon with coffee, then for lunch I had an avocado, a banana, an orange and an apple, later tonight it's lean and green and blueberries with real whipped cream for dessert.

I once heard someone say that the food you eat can be either the safest and most powerful form of medicine or the slowest form of poison. I'm beginning to believe it, most of my joint pain has disappeared.

So far, so good. I've dropped 12 pounds. My goal is to drop another 10 or 15 before I'm back in the water.

This book really motivated me: "The Obesity Code: Unlocking the Secrets ofWeight Loss" by Jason Fung, Timothy Noakes   

Meanwhile, down at the beach we've got this $#!+ going on:

Wednesday, May 3, 2017

Today's Shark Sighting

At lowers around 7:30 this morning. A little too close for comfort.

New Shark Repellent: 

Tuesday, May 2, 2017


What can I say. I'm injured and I can't surf. So the current hysteria on shark attacks and shark sightings at Trestles is a bit removed for me. Had I not been injured during this time I guarantee I would be in the line-up with everyone else. The difference for me is I would rely on my engineering background and take refuge in the statistics on shark attacks. The odds of getting attacked and killed by a shark in my lifetime are 1 in 3,748,067. (You are more likely to die from fireworks (1 in 340,733), lightning (1 in 79,746), drowning (1 in 1,134), a car accident (1 in 84), stroke (1 in 24), or heart disease (1 in 5)). Granted the data I looked at did not take into account the number of hours a typical surfer like me spends in the water verses the general public. But even if you cut the odds in half that's still 1 in 1,874,033.

So, just go surfing. Recent events aside the odds are still in your favor.

Or, if you can't stop thinking about the man in the grey suit quit surfing an take up something safe like tiddlywinks. Wait!?! I wonder what the odds are of eye injury playing tiddlywinks......

 duunnn dunnn... duuuunnnn duun... duuunnnnnnnn dun dun dun dun dun dun dun dun dun dun dunnnnnnnnnnn dunnnn

Monday, May 1, 2017

Clearly This Is Untenable

The current plan is to bury 3.6 million pounds of nuclear waste yards from the beach in one of the most densely populated and earthquake prone areas of the country. What could go wrong?

Never Get Tired of Watching DR

Sunday, April 30, 2017

Leeanne's Medical Fund

Leanne is the young lady that was injured by the shark at churches yesterday. She has a long road ahead, you can help with her recovery here: 

I'm Sure You've Heard By Now

There are sharks in the Ocean!
We had a shark attack at Churches yesterday.
Then this morning Greg, Mark and Rich were chased out of the water too! See video and social media screen grabs below:

Thursday, April 27, 2017


So how depressing is it to be grounded when there has be non-stop waves. You know the answer.
I had my first physical therapy appointment yesterday. The therapist let me know that I can expect to be back in the water fully recovered around the first week of July.
I then asked about prone surfing (aka: boogie board, paipo board, speed bump, dick dragger) and he said lets talk about it in 3 - 4 weeks.
In the meantime, once I'm off the crutches, I plan to come down regularly with my SLR and document the goings on.

One of my favorite waves:

Sunday, April 23, 2017

Watching, Judging....

I've literally been sitting on my ass for two weeks in pain. It's like having a muscle cramp that won't go away. It's getting better day by day and I start physical therapy next Wednesday. But my right calf is still swollen (1.5X) and a lot of the swelling has descended into my ankle thanks to gravity. Meanwhile this has been happening:










Sunday, April 16, 2017

Down Time

Well, I saw an Orthopedic surgeon Friday and have been diagnosed with a stage 2 calf muscle tear. I'm looking at 6-12 weeks recovery with PT 3X per week. So hopefully, sometime in June I'll be back in action. Maybe I'll get lucky and they'll let me do some prone wave riding on a paipo board or something in a few weeks. Meanwhile, I have the best seat in the house for Bells.

Monday, April 10, 2017

Too Soon

Tried to surf today. But all I managed to do is aggravate the injury after only 3 waves. This is gonna take some time.
Pink moon

Friday, April 7, 2017

Good News

I got good news today from the doctor. The x-rays show no tear in the lateral meniscus. Perfectly normal knee for a old fart who did too much running in his youth. Looks like I'll be back in action in a week or so. Hopefully, there's still some good waves around, next week's forecast looks goooood! Yew!

As Good As It Gets

That was the report this morning from Steve.
It'll be 4 or 5 days before I'll be in a position to surf again; I hope.
Surfline screen grab

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

Darn Darn Darny Darn

Not Another Injury!?!
I pulled a muscle in my right calf on my last wave in today. This is going to take a couple of days (minimum) to get over; I'm really busy at work so I can't go again till Saturday anyway.  I had a good morning up until then. The waves were shoulder high, wind offshore and water on a warming trend. Here we have Fraser on a good one: