There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Sunday, January 13, 2019

Yawn Patrol

Was busy in the early morning so headed down around 10:00. Nice to bypass the crowd and the cold morning for a change. There was a little texture but really fun all the same. Looks like a bit of rain this week; we will see if there is any windows to surf.
























Friday, January 11, 2019

Surfers Are The Worst

It's interesting that you see people from time to time in the line up and give them a friendly nod; even though you might not know their name. You know they can surf and understand surfing etiquette. THEN BAM! You get royally burned by said individual. It wouldn't be so bad if he didn't look. But he looked right at me and took off anyway. Even looked back to see how bad I got stuffed.

Remember, Karma is unforgiving, it bides it's time and will always get payback. 

The surf was small, chest high +. The water and air were 60º and 50º. Got all rubbered up and had fun aside from the kook move above.













 

Wednesday, January 9, 2019

Before The Bombs

Paddled out at dawn this morning with the hope that the swell would show a little earlier than forecasted. Plus, it was my only window for today. It was mostly chest high and inconsistent; but there were a few gems to be had. As I'm typing this it's overhead and pumping. Timing is everything.












Tuesday, January 1, 2019

Well, 2019 Is Off To A Slow Cold Start

If only there was a little more swell. Nothing over chest high, hard off shores, 60ᣞ water and 59ᣞ air. I'm so glad I brought a 9' longboard cuz the waves were soft and slow.

Happy New Year!



















I didn't turn on my watch for the first 30 minutes of the sesh.