There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Saturday, December 31, 2011

A Nice Way To End The Year

Nice head high (plus) waves today. Good conditions, medium crowd.  A really good session.











Friday, December 30, 2011

1/2 The Size And 3X The People

Caught a few nice ones towards the bay but it was nowhere near as good as yesterday.





   

Thursday, December 29, 2011

That's What I'm Talkin' About

Elected to go in the afternoon again.  So nice to wear a 3/2 and surf when it's warm for a change.  Oh yeah, the waves were shoulder to overhead, a really light crowd and glassy.   The fog started rolling in as I got out of the water so the pictures are a little washed out.







Wednesday, December 28, 2011

More Of The Same

Just a tad smaller and a little less consistent.  A nice set rolled in right after I took an inside wave in.  Damn.







Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Icy Perfection

Conditions at dawn: Air: 38, Water: 58, Wind: hard offshore, Waves: shoulder high to overhead. Stayed a little south of the pack and caught the waves that swung wide. An excellent session was had.  Dave was on fire with his Roberts diamond fish.





Monday, December 26, 2011

Pretty Damn Good

Did another afternoon session.   Air was 75, at least!  It was nice to wear a 3-2 for a change.   Should have worn booties - water was 56-57.



The bay was the way





Sunday, December 25, 2011

Merry Christmas

It's a day for family and friends.  And a surf if you can squeeze one in ;).  Enjoy.

Friday, December 23, 2011

Late Start Again

Missed the morning session - forgot to set the alarm and my wife was very lightfooted going down stairs with the dogs.   I think it was a set-up.  Didn't wake up until 7am.  But did make the effort this evening.  Belly to shoulder high and only a dozen guys out.  Started out glassy, then-off shore and finally from the NNE.







Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Lonely


Paddled out at 6:10 all by myself.   Air 40˚, water 58˚ and a stiff offshore wind.  It was slightly bigger than yesterday (waist to maybe shoulder high) and more consistent, not a lot but definitely more consistent.   A little swamped out with the 6.2 high tide peaking just before dawn, but I’m sure it got better as the tide dropped.   Just after  7:00 Troy and Phil paddled out.   Had to bail at 7:30 so I could be at an "important" meeting in Irvine by 9:00.  
Wore my new Isurus 4-3-4 wetsuit today.  This is absolutely the warmest wetsuit I’ve ever owned.   It fit me like a glove and basically felt like I was dry on the inside.   The closed cell Yamamoto neoprene is hydrophobic, so it’s not absorbing any water.  I highly recommend it.