There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Sunday, April 25, 2010

April 24th and 25th

Two days of much better surf than was predicted.   The reports aren't always right.
Saturday:













Sunday:

Mr. Black:


Monday, April 19, 2010

April 19th: Right Place Right Time

Last night I almost decided not to surf today.   I had an 8:00am conference call and a 9:00am presentation that I hadn't started yet.   So I forced myself to put together the presentation late Sunday night and set the alarm for oh dark 30.   Paddled out at around 5:30am and had one of the better sessions I've had in a long time.   I was in the right place at the right time over and over again.   Out of the water at 7:30, rode up to the truck in my wetsuit, take my whore's bath (warm water rinse using two 2 liter water bottles I filled with hot water before I left), get dressed for work and phoned into the 8:00am conference call on the way to work.  Executed the presentation flawlessly at 9:00.

Well worth the effort.

April 18th

Sunday - Funday













Surf the rails

Saturday, April 17, 2010

April 17th

You ever have one of those days where you get some really good waves, thrown in with a few embarrassing donkeys?   That was my morning today.













Friday, April 16, 2010

April 16th

Got a few good ones early - but as you can see there was very little etiquette once the crowd showed up.   I saw so many people get burned this morning, me included.  Bad Carma, what comes around, goes around.  It didn't help that it was a bit inconsistent as well.  














Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Very consistent 3-5 foot wedges.   It was a tough paddle out.   Slight off shore and not too many dawn patrollers after the rain.   I'm OK with that.   Only got one pic then the battery on my camera died.

Monday, April 12, 2010

April 12th

Today was a no surf day with the rain and wind.














I did see this little guy on PCH in North Laguna on the way to work:


April 10th and 11th

I didn't surf Saturday the 10th; other things to do.   Woke up Sunday and decided to surf somewhere else for a change of pace and knowing that uppers would probably be at maximum capacity: 4'-6', south swell, Sunday, etc.   Ended up surfing by myself for a couple of hours at this not so secret Laguna Beach spot.   I'm sure it was only one third to half the size of uppers but the solitude was refreashing.


























That is; until the janitors showed up:

Friday, April 9, 2010

April 9th

Too tired from yesterday - a little bumpy, wind swelly. fat with the tide and fun when you found yourself in the right place.













April 8th

Not too crowded, very fun and a couple of tubes for JD.  Ahhhhhh.













Follow the groove:



Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Tuesday

Friday April 2nd was unreal, tube rides for everyone and just a handful of people the first hour to enjoy it.













Saturday was a carbon copy:













Sunday started off good, paddled out at dawn all by myself.  It was a little wind swelly with a full off shore flow.   Within 45 minutes the wind shifted and it got bumpy; oh well Happy Easter:













Today was just like Friday:














How great is this wave and how lucky am I to get to surf here?





Friday, April 2, 2010

April 2nd

Today was by far the coldest morning of the season.   42 degree air, howling offshore wind and head high waves.   I was actually fine while in the toasty 60 degree water but once on shore my feet ached badly.  Oh and by the way it was another day with the bay all to to myself.