There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Saturday, August 30, 2014

Better Than Yesterday

A little smaller with better shape. Caught four waves in the first 15 minutes during a pre-dawn flurry. Then there was lots of lull time after that.

Friday, August 29, 2014

Crossed Up S Swell With Windswell

More like a beach break today. Up to head high, off shore and cooler water.
Keep your eyes on the wave boys

Here's a video Rob put together.  Enjoy:

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Big Wednesday

Too BIG for this old guy. Not only am I a kook in the water but I'm a kook with a camera.  Brought my good camera down to uppers this morning and had loads of trouble with the focus in the low light.  I need a class or something.  Anyway, here's an out of focus sequence of uppers (Casey, I think), a sequence of elevator point and then a boatload of pics from the Wedge.  You might want to speed it up, it's 5 seconds a pic.  (Update: I sped it up) Enjoy:

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

That Was Some Good Crack!

Super fun head high waves with a really mellow crowd. Caught a ton of good waves. It was supposed to be a little smaller today, but it was actually bigger than yesterday. Couldn't take too many pictures, ran out of time.
Fred, is that your bald head getting a little shampoo?

Monday, August 25, 2014

5400 Seconds

That's all the time I had. But it was enough time to snag a dozen waves.  Looks like tomorrow will be smaller yet; but Wednesday is supposed to be huge. Probably too big for uppers. Outta my league anyway.