Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Thursday, December 24, 2015
Not All Time, But I'll Take It
The first hour was pretty fun, but the 6.6 high tide at 7:30 was just too much for it. Still I surfed till 8:30 waiting for that occasional nugget. Glad I paddled out early.
Poor little fella, wasn't feeling good. He wouldn't / couldn't move.
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