There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Thursday, July 27, 2017

Waiting For The Super Secret Swell

It's been microscopic the last few days, but it looks like Saturday afternoon through Tuesday will have some swell from Hurricane Hilary, although it may be downgraded some. We'll know in the next 24 hours. Meanwhile, I've been slaving away in front of these two glowing rectangles till my butt aches. As luck would have it I'm busy all day Saturday, but the swell really doesn't arrive until later in the day so the morning will still be pretty small. Get ready to surf with 60 of your closest friends.

Monday, July 24, 2017

Last Saturday

A bit slower on Saturday but still a few good waves came through. We still had toasty warm water and mild off shores.  Ruben was on the beach taking pictures so there's plenty of FB activity too. My humble wave at the end of this post was the best one of the morning for me.

Friday, July 21, 2017

The Kook Returns

First time back in the water since my April 10th injury. I took it real easy, my leg felt solid and I'm STOKED out of my mind.
Waves were chest to head high, the water was toasty warm and I had a blast.

Wednesday, July 12, 2017

Almost There

Actually, I've been given the go ahead to start surfing again. So why am I not on this swell?!?
Well, I spent last week in Maui with family and friends and at the end of the trip I came down with a case of Shingles. The doc said Shingles is an opportunistic virus that lays dormant until the immune system is compromised. She said it is probably a result of the trauma from my calf muscle tear. It's a moderate case and the doc wants me to stay out of the water until the blisters heal up.  Apparently, there is high risk of infection. The rash starts at my mid back and wraps around my left side almost to my belly button. I had no idea that Shingles was this painful, it feels like someone punched me in the kidneys not to mention the rash itches like no other. Don't worry I won't post any pictures of it. LOL So I'm looking at another week or two before it subsides. If it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all.....
My little beach girls

Me and the better half

Nothing like breakfast at The Plantation House

Best cove for Turtles - Honokeana Cove
Not a bad surf spot either in the winter

Cutie pies

My little girl

My daughter and husband

Family and Friends