Yesterday's Sesh

Long soft lines. Glassy, uncrowded and warm with blue skies. Glad I brought my 7' Mitsven Longfish or it would have been not-so-fun. Stayed out way too long, not good for my neck problems. What's wrong with me?

It's A Struggle

Years ago I was diagnosed with Cervical Spinal Stenosis and the last couple of months have been a struggle. I'm starting to feel numbness in my thumbs and my arms ache all the time. There's no surgical solution. The best I can do is a lot of stretching and traction. Which I have started. I did happen to get out today, only caught a handful of waves. Plan to step it up in the coming weeks.

Grandson Update

As I mentioned before my grandson has A-plastic Anemia. 

Tripp had two broviac lines installed on Saturday (Out-patient procedure). He named them SpongeBob and Patrick. 

He was admitted to UNC Children’s Hospital yesterday. Today, he had his first dose of radiation therapy. It’s done under light anesthesia. Three more consecutive doses of radiation and then 5 days of Chemo before he gets the bone marrow transplant.

So today is day -9 and begins the count-down to transplant day Jan 22.

This is one brave kid. No crying, little to no fear, very engaged in the process and asks the doctors lots of questions.

First radiation treatment

SpongeBob and Patrick

FYI – He wanted a buzz cut before all this started just in case he loses his hair.

Thank you all for your kind words and for keeping Tripp in your prayers. 

I'm Still Here

I even surfed a couple of times last week; both days were about the same: Small, soft, knee to chest high waves. I rode a 7'4" Christensen Fonzer and fully enjoyed the uncrowded line-up. Hopefully, things on the work front slow down enough for me to get back into the groove.
Tuesday January 7th

Thursday January 10th

Old Man Surfing