There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Monday, May 22, 2017


Finally, I was able to make it down to the beach after 6 weeks, but just to take pictures. I was doing ok until the fog rolled in. Then I had a hard time focusing the camera. Need to better understand my Cannon Rebel. Total kook.

Here's Mike and Bane before the fog:

Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Not Missing Much

The last 10 days or so have been pretty sucky. Eddy conditions and minimal swell; not that it matters for me.
Making some good progress in physical therapy. Finally the swelling is subsiding and I'm walking normally. Another month or so and I should be back in action.
Hope the waves pick up for you guys between now and then.

Thursday, May 11, 2017

Survey Said: Boring

No surfing, no real exercise (except PT), just laying around with my leg up on ice.

So I put myself on a diet just so I'm not regulated to a longboard when I get back in water in July. I needed to do this for a long time anyway.

No I'm not counting calories and no I'm not doing any of the fad diets out there. I'm just eating real food, no snacking and absolutely nothing out of a box or a bag. I'm also fasting once or twice a week for 24 hours. It's weird, I'm never hungry now. No cravings, not depriving myself and no worries if I skip a meal. For instance, this morning I had 2 eggs and bacon with coffee, then for lunch I had an avocado, a banana, an orange and an apple, later tonight it's lean and green and blueberries with real whipped cream for dessert.

I once heard someone say that the food you eat can be either the safest and most powerful form of medicine or the slowest form of poison. I'm beginning to believe it, most of my joint pain has disappeared.

So far, so good. I've dropped 12 pounds. My goal is to drop another 10 or 15 before I'm back in the water.

This book really motivated me: "The Obesity Code: Unlocking the Secrets ofWeight Loss" by Jason Fung, Timothy Noakes   

Meanwhile, down at the beach we've got this $#!+ going on:

Wednesday, May 3, 2017

Today's Shark Sighting

At lowers around 7:30 this morning. A little too close for comfort.

New Shark Repellent: 

Tuesday, May 2, 2017


What can I say. I'm injured and I can't surf. So the current hysteria on shark attacks and shark sightings at Trestles is a bit removed for me. Had I not been injured during this time I guarantee I would be in the line-up with everyone else. The difference for me is I would rely on my engineering background and take refuge in the statistics on shark attacks. The odds of getting attacked and killed by a shark in my lifetime are 1 in 3,748,067. (You are more likely to die from fireworks (1 in 340,733), lightning (1 in 79,746), drowning (1 in 1,134), a car accident (1 in 84), stroke (1 in 24), or heart disease (1 in 5)). Granted the data I looked at did not take into account the number of hours a typical surfer like me spends in the water verses the general public. But even if you cut the odds in half that's still 1 in 1,874,033.

So, just go surfing. Recent events aside the odds are still in your favor.

Or, if you can't stop thinking about the man in the grey suit quit surfing an take up something safe like tiddlywinks. Wait!?! I wonder what the odds are of eye injury playing tiddlywinks......

 duunnn dunnn... duuuunnnn duun... duuunnnnnnnn dun dun dun dun dun dun dun dun dun dun dunnnnnnnnnnn dunnnn

Monday, May 1, 2017

Clearly This Is Untenable

The current plan is to bury 3.6 million pounds of nuclear waste yards from the beach in one of the most densely populated and earthquake prone areas of the country. What could go wrong?

Never Get Tired of Watching DR