There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Stupid Wind

But we made the best of it.  Paddled out at 5:35, with a SSE wind at about 10 knots, by 6:00 it laid down and almost got glassy.  But by 8:00 it started picking up a little and by the time I got back to my truck the flag at Carl’s Jr was hanging straight down.  Waves were chest to head high and pretty lined up; but if you caught the right one…. 

That's Doug out front

Saturday, April 27, 2013

Small, Fat and Slow

It looked like slow motion; well maybe not that bad.  Lots of time spent waiting for sets.  Once I moved over to the bay where Steve was sitting I caught a ton of little waist high zippers.

That algae is taking over the estuary

Friday, April 26, 2013


Thank God It's Fading, the swell that is.   In between swells is always the best, less crowds with fun playful waves.  Only 5 of us in the water the first hour and only a dozen when I left.  Sure it was smaller, but there were still some gems to be had.

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Crowd Pleaser

Changed boards today and brought the Proctor Lil Rascal down.   A little more volume than my HGD Blackstar which is what I rode yesterday.  Caught a ton more waves.  Today was about the same size but a lot more lined up.   I’m told I burned someone on my ride in.   I was further out and standing up when someone spun around and took off behind me.  Nice try.  

Florida Joe

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

The Word Is Out!

Yep, south swell = crowded conditions.  The first hour was pretty fun cuz I snagged a few set waves before the hoards moved in.   The second hour I sat in uppers Garcia territory and caught a few choice lefts that were being ignored.  My wave in was not too graceful, hit a ball of kelp on a backside bottom turn and…… you know the rest of the story.