Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
A Tad Smaller
The swell dropped a little today, the crowd thinned too (a little) and the waves were definately more consistent resulting in an increased wave count for everyone. Paddeled out at 5:20 and surfed till 8:00. I need a nap right about now.
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