Boy did I ever blow it today. It was cold Monday (59˚-60˚) the last time I surfed after the Sunday night windfest, but I assumed it had started warming back up again. I almost put the 4/3 on this morning because of the air temp at home, but decided to go with the 3/2, it’s June for fuck’s sake and I was only going to be able to stay out for an hour and a half before going to work anyway. Then I decided to forgo booties, even though it was low tide; I hate booties. It felt pretty cold as I paddled out into the head high plus waves and the offshore wind was howling; it seemed tolerable though at first. Caught a few waves and then the cold started to bring my core temperature down. It had to 55˚, maybe less and the air was in the mid 40’s. What little mojo I had was completed sucked out of me. Went over the falls and then spun out on a bottom turn. I couldn’t feel my feet or my hands. Finally caught a decent sized wave in, completed a very painful rock dance and called it a morning. Too bad, because it really was good. Tomorrow I’ll be gettin all rubbered up.
 |
| Still Flowing |
No comments:
Post a Comment