There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Thursday, June 23, 2011

And The Multitudes Came

South Swells always clear the beach breaks and clog the points. It’s a fact that we have to live with. Nice head high plus waves today. It was also nice to be wearing a 2mil for a change. Caught 8 or 10 decent waves in 90 minutes, one donkey and one that I apparently jacked from Steve. My apologies: I didn’t see you man, I thought you were too deep, didn’t you go left, I didn’t think you had it or I thought you pulled out. Those sound more like excuses don’t they….. Sorry bro, I’d rather owe you than cheat you .





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