South Swells always clear the beach breaks and clog the points. It’s a fact that we have to live with. Nice head high plus waves today. It was also nice to be wearing a 2mil for a change. Caught 8 or 10 decent waves in 90 minutes, one donkey and one that I apparently jacked from Steve. My apologies: I didn’t see you man, I thought you were too deep, didn’t you go left, I didn’t think you had it or I thought you pulled out. Those sound more like excuses don’t they….. Sorry bro, I’d rather owe you than cheat you ☻.
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