Today is International Surfing Day, you should have surfed this morning. My expectations were low given the forecast and what was showing on the buoys at 4:45am. But, I paddled out at 5:15 to head high glassy waves all by my lonesome. Caught a few nice lined up waves until a guy that paddled out at barb wires made his way over to the point. Then it was just the two of us until around 6:30 when the crowd started filling in and the ebb tide put the kybosh on the sets. Struggled to get one in, and finally paddled inside and groveled for a waist high one turn wave. Only took a few quick pictures as I was running really late.
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