Patterns

It was so glassy this morning the waves and the horizon just blended together.  It was hard to see the waves coming until they were almost on top of you.  There were only four of us out the first half hour.   Nice!  Then we had a hint of south wind for a while until it turned offshore. The waves were smaller than yesterday and the crowd was light.   Hmmm, smaller the waves = less people, I sense a pattern here.

Sponger!

A Tad Smaller

The swell dropped a little today, the crowd thinned too (a little) and the waves were definately more consistent resulting in an increased wave count for everyone.   Paddeled out at 5:20 and surfed till 8:00.  I need a nap right about now.

Yesterday

Forgot to post yesterday!?!  Overhead, semi-crowded and good.  

A Change of Pace

Woke up this morning in a bit of a funk.   Was not motivated at all.   Decided to surf somewhere different for a change.  So I drove north to Scotsman’s Cove which really only breaks good on a south swell and a full tide.  Waves were head high, maybe a little overhead on the sets and only four guys out when I left; all goofyfooters  and me ;).   The first hour it was just two guys out.   Tomorrow I’m going fishing out of Dana Point, see you Monday at Uppers.

And The Multitudes Came

South Swells always clear the beach breaks and clog the points. It’s a fact that we have to live with. Nice head high plus waves today. It was also nice to be wearing a 2mil for a change. Caught 8 or 10 decent waves in 90 minutes, one donkey and one that I apparently jacked from Steve. My apologies: I didn’t see you man, I thought you were too deep, didn’t you go left, I didn’t think you had it or I thought you pulled out. Those sound more like excuses don’t they….. Sorry bro, I’d rather owe you than cheat you ☻.

What a Circus

Definition: A travelling company of entertainers that may include acrobats, clowns, trained animals, trapeze acts, and other stunt-oriented acts.

Caught a few fun waves the first half hour or so, but it was way too inconsistent to support the crowd that formed as the morning progressed.

Contests always bring an “interesting” element to the line-up. There was spring suit – booty man, a pack of NSSA wanna-be’s, and an assortment of fun boarders.

Is it Winter yet?





Circus Tents


Then I saw this on Surfer Mag on line:


LNF: Lowers Raid! from Lastnamefirst.tv on Vimeo.


Arrrgggg

A Tad Smaller Today

Fun chest high waves this morning, looked like it was picking up as I left. 

Fred getting jacked

Etiquette free zone

Happy ISD

Today is International Surfing Day, you should have surfed this morning. My expectations were low given the forecast and what was showing on the buoys at 4:45am. But, I paddled out at 5:15 to head high glassy waves all by my lonesome. Caught a few nice lined up waves until a guy that paddled out at barb wires made his way over to the point. Then it was just the two of us until around 6:30 when the crowd started filling in and the ebb tide put the kybosh on the sets. Struggled to get one in, and finally paddled inside and groveled for a waist high one turn wave. Only took a few quick pictures as I was running really late.

Happy Father's Day

Got a Break From Eddy

Smooth as glass this morning with just a handful of early birds the first hour.   Nice shoulder high waves and warm water.   It's odd that Saturday would be the least crowded day of the week; although there was a lot of traffic coming down the trail on my way back up. 
BTW - My condolences to little Heke. 

Edwardo The Nuisance

Yep, he made his presence known, but there were still some fun head high plus waves on top of the bump.  It even semi-glassed off for a while.  Water was toasty warm, 67˚ or so, and the crowd moderate.  It looks like Edwardo is going to spend the weekend with us too.  

A Few Waves Here and There

More belly to shoulder high waves this morning, moderate crowd and the warm water seems to be hangin around for a while.   Could have worn a spring suit this morning.