There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

West Wind Swell

Very disorganized, overlapping peaks, off shore, warm water, chest to head high and five guys out.   I’ll take it!  Caught a handful of good waves in between the mush-outs and that donkey on my first wave.   Took off late on a set wave and abandoned ship before I got to the bottom as the whole wave was exploding around me; I hate when that happens but I had to try.  Dave was getting a ton of waves on the inside towards the bay, I probably shoulda hung out there too, may have got a few more waves.




Dave made the Surfline Cam today.   Atta boy. 


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