Dave made the Surfline Cam today. Atta boy. |
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
West Wind Swell
Very
disorganized, overlapping peaks, off shore, warm water, chest to head high and five
guys out. I’ll take it! Caught a handful of good waves in between the
mush-outs and that donkey on my first wave.
Took off late on a set wave and abandoned ship before I got to the
bottom as the whole wave was exploding around me; I hate when that happens but
I had to try. Dave was getting a ton of
waves on the inside towards the bay, I probably shoulda hung out there too, may
have got a few more waves.
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