Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Monday, June 4, 2012
Finally
After
a couple of weeks of junk surf and coastal eddy conditions we finally got some
swell without the wind. Chest to head high,
moderately consistent, and really crowded by the time I exited. Had to cut it short in order to be at work by
8:00; was fashionably late.
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