Happy Anniversary To Me

Today is the 45^th anniversary of catching my first wave.   For my 12^th birthday my Dad bought me my own surfboard which came with a set of wood racks for the family station wagon; all for $40.   The old man got me a 9’6” Weber from the son of the owner of Kruse dairy in Pico Rivera.  That first wave put the hook in me and I knew then I would do this the rest of my life.  The wave itself  wasn’t  too spectacular, I basically rode the foam into a reform on the inside at HB pier.  But that’s all it took.
As for today’s fiasco, Dave and I got skunked again.  Nothing over knee high.   Maybe tomorrow if there’s some size and the south wind doesn’t hack it up