Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, June 29, 2012
Really Really Really Small
Made
the best of it, caught a few down the line waves. Nothing over chest high and breaking in
really shallow water. Damn lucky I didn’t
break off a fin on the few that I rode to the inside.
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