There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Thursday, June 7, 2012

More Wind Swell

Paddled out just before  5am, nobody around.   I was joined about an hour later by Dave and a couple of other guys.   It was a little smaller than yesterday but much cleaner.   Surfed for over 3 hours and caught a ton of waves.   South wind was getting on it as I left, but it was off shore until 8:00.  I’m really tired; need  to take a nap.




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