There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Same Old Thing

Another day of small inconsistent surf.  At least it wasn't crowded.  It seemed to start picking up a little just before 7:00.   I was out-o-there by 7:30.
Steve





That's Steve on the left


Friday, June 29, 2012

Really Really Really Small

Made the best of it, caught a few down the line waves.   Nothing over chest high and breaking in really shallow water.   Damn lucky I didn’t break off a fin on the few that I rode to the inside.








Monday, June 25, 2012

Crisp Clean Morning

Offshore, 64˚ water and 50 something air with a strong off shore flow.  It was a little cold in a 3/2.  Waves?  A few here and there, I wasn’t too into it today as I have contracted another cold.  Dave got the wave of the day, way over in Uppers Garcia territory.  Nice!





Sunday, June 24, 2012

A Little More Punch

Just a little and only when a set wave would come through.  Paddled out at 5am, called it quits by 7.  Still small, water chilled down a couple of degrees and the air temp was much cooler than yesterday too.





This young lady was getting all the point waves on her longboard

Nick about to take off on one of my bay waves :)


Saturday, June 23, 2012

I Don't Know What To Think About Today

Didn't get too many waves the first hour or so that were worth talking about.  I don't think it was me, it was more the minus tide and weak swell.  I then paddled deep into the bay, 10 yards past the shack to see if there was anything there before I went in and sure enough the last half hour I caught a handful of nice down the line waves.  Go figure.


Fred






Friday, June 22, 2012

Small Drained Out Lines

The first 45 minutes was pretty fun with a long flurry of waves.  Things backed off for a while as the tide filled in and the crowd thickened.  As I was leaving things seemed to be picking up again.  Summer crowds are beginning to form; the usual seasonal cycle til the kids go back to school.






Wednesday, June 20, 2012

International Surfing Day

I didn't surf today, still very busy at work.  But during my lunch I came across the video tribute to Terry Martin that was played at his benefit last month.  Words to live by:


Shaping Life Terry Martin from Donald Brink on Vimeo.

Thanks Donnie

Monday, June 18, 2012

One Hour

That's all the time I had available this morning.  Paddled out at 5:05 all by myself, joined later by Will and then Fred.  Caught close to 10 belly high waves and then hi-tailed it to work. Nothing spectacular, but better than not going at all. Super busy at work this week, probably can't go again till Friday.  







Sunday, June 17, 2012

Happy Father's Day

Steve, Greg and I had the best time this morning.   We paddled out just after 5:00 into chest high little zippers.  There was about 45 minutes where we were the only ones out while a flurry of waves came through during that time.  We all caught at least 8 waves each before anyone else showed up.  (Greg was counting, of course)  Warm water, three buddies in the water trading chest high waves.  It doesn't get any better than that.   As soon as the crowd showed up we bailed.  Happy Father's Day indeed!







The Crowd