Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, January 12, 2018
Slow Motion Surfing
Small swell and high tide do not make good bedfellows. But I was dying to get wet. There was no crowd to fight for the meager offerings, In fact there was only 2 of us in the water. Afterward, I went to work in a better frame of mind.