Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Monday, January 22, 2018
Another Evening Sesh
Not as good as last night; smaller and a little more wind. But I surfed with one other dude for an hour and a half, which was nice. But when I saw 4 longboarders paddling out together I called it a day. The tide was getting too low anyway and it was getting more and more gutless.
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