Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, January 19, 2018
Biopsy Results Good!!!
Got the call this evening, nice to have that behind me. I did paddle out this morning and caught a handful of waves. There were some bombs. Wasn't my best session but I'll take it.
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