Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, January 30, 2018
Saturday, January 27, 2018
Bigger Than Advertised
Expectations were low this morning, but there was plenty of swell at dawn, even with the 5.5 receding high tide. Waves were shoulder high plus, calm winds and cold water (58 degrees). My GPS watch says my longest wave was 396 yards. Yew! Nap time.
Tuesday, January 23, 2018
So So Good This Afternoon
Got down to the beach just before noon. Chest high plus waves, light crowd and 2 1/2 hours of fun fun fun.
Monday, January 22, 2018
Another Evening Sesh
Not as good as last night; smaller and a little more wind. But I surfed with one other dude for an hour and a half, which was nice. But when I saw 4 longboarders paddling out together I called it a day. The tide was getting too low anyway and it was getting more and more gutless.
The big guy gets his! |
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