My goto board when it's tiny. |
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Monday, May 28, 2012
Microwaves
Knee to waist high, off shore and warm water. Paddled out with Steve at 5:15 and the next soul to paddle out was around an hour and a half later. Every once in a while a chest high wave would come through. It's a good thing I brought the Terry Martin down today; caught a lot more waves than I would have on my short board. I caught a fun one after I said I was going in, then made the mistake of paddling back out, cuz it took forever to catch another one. Lowers was definitely better when an occasional set came through but there were 20+ guys on it from the get go this morning.
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