Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Slightly Smaller And Less Crowded
Still some head high waves and the warm water continues (wore the 2 mil today). Caught a bunch of waves in the first 45 minutes when there were 4 and 5 wave sets. But then the incoming tide had its usual effect on consistency and the crowd factor played in as well. We won’t talk about my full fledged donkey on my second to last wave. Only surfed till 7:30 today, got to push the wagon. In fact, work will keep me dry for the next couple of days. Why couldn’t I have been born rich instead of so good looking ;).
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Hey John, I just heard that you do this. Awesome daily updates and photos, I see you in the water all the time (I have a red cast on my right hand right now, name is Will). Monday and today were awesome conditions and mellow crowd. Keep up the good work, stoked to see your on it almost everyday.
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