There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

I Called It

Slater won the Hurley, what a surprise.   He always kills it here.

Paddled out in the dark this morning.  Not exactly dark though, there was florescence in water again.   Not only when the waves broke but when my hands cut through the water too.   Very cool.  Uppers wasn't that great this morning.  Caught a couple of shoulder high waves early, then face planted on a set wave, just got too excited and leaned too hard into the first turn.   Then it got really inconsistent.   
Fahday

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