Had to be in a meeting in Irvine by 8:00 this morning. I wasn’t going to surf but I had so much fun yesterday I had to go for a quickie today. Paddled out at 5:15, surfed 1hr 45min and was riding back up the hill by 7:10. Totally worth it. Shoulder to head high waves, hard off-shores, warmer water (65˚) and minimal participation by the usual suspects. After this weekend it will officially be summertime; I’m sure I’ll be praying for Winter by the end of June☻
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| The Bay is the way |
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