There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Friday, May 13, 2011

A Hint of South Swell

More of the same.  Belly to chest high waves, off shore at first - then calm - then south, water around 62.   There were a couple of head high sets out of the south around 7:15 but with high tide at 6:20 those set waves were pretty suppressed earlier.  Took the big board out today, at first I thought it was a mistake but with the high tide morning sickness it turned out to be the right call.  I caught one wave this morning when the wind went calm where I could hardly differentiate the face of the wave from the sky and the surrounding water.   It had that oily glassy look; very cool.  I’m told the S wind died off and it got glassy again.   It probably got good around 10:30 or so after the tide dropped some.  




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