Not Bad....

Considering it was "Victory at Sea" yesterday.   It actually cleaned up nicely but also delivered some nad numbing water.   Glad I wore the 4/3 and booties today.  Only caught a half dozen waves, just waiting for the right ones as it was kind of all over the place.   The one I rode in on was bending almost back out to sea.  It was one of the longest rides I've ever had at uppers; kicked out 3 feet from the sand about 3/4's of the way to Lowers! 

I Don't Know...

What to think about today.  Crowded, windswelly, mushy, soft shouldered belly to chest high waves with offshore winds.   With the occasional fast little zipper past the shack.   I think the inside bay was way better then the point this morning.  Summer is here my friends, all we need now is for the tram to start back up.

Nice Way to Start a 4 Day Weekend

Paddled out at 5:30 to chest high waves, a light offshore breeze and 65 degree water.   Stayed out for 3 hours, went home sat in the Jacuzzi for half an hour and then took a nap.

One of Those Days

Wasn’t very into it today.  Dave and I watched for 15 minutes before talking ourselves into just getting wet.  There were inconsistent belly to chest high windswelly waves, a nice offshore flow and 65˚ water.   I caught a few decent waves early on and then the long lull ensued.   Paddled inside where I saw Fred groveling for inside waves and couldn’t make that work for me either.   Finally drifted into the bay and caught a couple of chest high zippers before cashing it in.  Caught about 5 decent waves in an hour and a half, not very productive, but at least I got wet.

A Little Morning Sickness

Started out a little slow this morning (5:15) with inconsistent belly to chest high sets.  Just after 7:00 it was like someone turned on the switch and all of a sudden we had consistent head high sets.  Had to leave by 8:00 but caught as many waves in those 45 minutes as I did before 7:00.  It was really crisp and clean when I left, it would have been a good day to play hooky.  

Garcia

There’s Always Time For A Quickie

Had to be in a meeting in Irvine by 8:00 this morning.   I wasn’t going to surf but I had so much fun yesterday I had to go for a quickie today.  Paddled out at 5:15, surfed 1hr 45min and was riding back up the hill by 7:10.   Totally worth it.   Shoulder to head high waves, hard off-shores, warmer water (65˚) and minimal participation by the usual suspects.  After this weekend it will officially be summertime; I’m sure I’ll be praying for Winter by the end of June☻

The Bay is the way

Eddy Who?

Eddy conditions were predicted by all sources last night.   Like I keep saying “you can’t score if you don’t go”.   Paddled out at 5:30, could have been out at 5:00 since the sky was clear at that time.  It went from some minor texture, to off-shore, to smooth glass.  We had shoulder high waves and only 5 guys out the whole two hour session.  Some soft shoulders, but the waves out of the south that broke in front of the shack were pretty fun.  Caught at least a dozen decent waves and even got a cover up on one.   

SE Wind?

Paddled out at 5:20 this morning, there was almost no wind.   By the time I got to the line up the SE wind started to show, just enough to give it some texture.   Surf was head high, light crowd and overall a pretty fun morning.

Bane - Livin the Dream

Smaller and Better

Inconsistent overhead waves on the sets.   Sat a little bit inside and grovelled for the head high waves.   It doubled my wave count from yesterday.   Had to take a few on head, but it was worth it.

Water still flowing

We Got Swell!

Only problem was the sets were few and far between and about half of them were closed out.   The minus tide had things pretty drained out.   Except when I paddled out, I had to duck dive a dozen waves before I made it out.  I hate that!  I’m sure it will get better as the tide fills in and if the wind holds off.  I only got 4 waves this morning.  Two good ones, a two turn wave, and a closed out bomb to go in on.  Did I mention that the off shore wind was cold as hell; glad I brought the 1.5mL hood.

Corey