Went for a quick dawn patrol session. In the water at 6:10, out at 7:30. Surfed by myself until 7:15! There were at least 15 guys out at Lowers, go figure. It’s funny how the mind works when you’re in the water by yourself, every piece of seaweed that touches your feet is a predator. I just kept paddling around to keep my mind off it. Got a ton of waist to chest high waves. But after two other guys paddled out, it really harshed my buzz. Besides I’m really slammed at work, right? Was in the office by 8:30.
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