It was a classic California fall morning. Only in the water for 1.5 hours but caught 10 -12 waves on my 6’4” plank. Not bad for an old guy.
Thank God my Dad bought me that first surfboard in 1968. It was a dinged up 9'6" Dewey Weber with a set of wood car racks for $40. The guy wanted $60, but my Dad got him down to $40. That was my first stoke.
The crowd thinned from the weekend, but it was still a popular spot for the morning, with an assortment of the usual suspects. When I get to work after a morning like this, it’s really hard to focus. I keep reviewing in my mind the set waves that I rode all the way into the bay……. Uh-Oh here comes my boss!
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