I paddled out with one other guy at 6:30am; still dark, a little orange on the horizon and some moonlight. We had consistent chest to head high waves and a strong off-shore wind. Got a barrel right off the bat with the lights from SONGS showing the way. No one else showed up on the beach until 7:00 or so. These are the days that keep me coming back for more.
How do you explain this feeling of fulfillment to people who don’t surf?
Driving to work after this morning’s session I was caught in a traffic jam going north on the 5. Came off on PCH in Dana, stopped for a cup of Java and leisurely cruised the coast into work; a little late but without regret.
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