Steam on the blacktop after the sun came out. |
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Monday, May 20, 2019
Yesterday
Rode down at 10:30. The wind was starting to get on it by the time I paddled out but it was nice to get back in the water. It rained almost the whole time. I really only caught two decent waves. The first one and the last one. Pretty rusty after almost 3 weeks of no surfing. Plus I put on a few pounds in Georgia. Back in control and working it off as fast as I can. It's tougher the older you get.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment