Rob on the wave of the day.... |
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, August 13, 2014
Why Didn't I Sleep In?
Cuz I don't want to miss it when it's good. Today was not one of those days. There were a few belly to maybe chest high sets but a lot of waiting around. Good thing it wasn't crowded. I caught a 8 or 10 fun ones but my last half hour was Donkey City. I managed to get a respectable one in but I walked back to my bike in shame with my tail between my legs. Woof!
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