Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Monday, August 25, 2014
5400 Seconds
That's all the time I had. But it was enough time to snag a dozen waves. Looks like tomorrow will be smaller yet; but Wednesday is supposed to be huge. Probably too big for uppers. Outta my league anyway.
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