Shoulder high zippers with only a handful of
early risers. I caught as many waves as
I had yesterday in the first 30 minutes this morning. You can’t score if you don’t go.
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, April 30, 2014
Tuesday, April 29, 2014
Missed It
I heard yesterday was bigger and way less crowded. I had some important family stuff going on, so family always comes first. Today we had head high waves to share with a considerable crowd. I was very productive for most of my session, except the last 1/2 hour; couldn't find one to go in on and when I did it was a close out. Oh well, there's always tomorrow....
STOP looking at the lady |
Oh Yeah! |
Friday, April 25, 2014
Funky Town
I took the last two days off just to rest up, I was really tired from 5 days straight with good waves. I was actually happy to see an e-mail from my boss Wednesday morning asking me to take care of something first thing, even though I was all packed and ready to go.
It was all good when I checked the buoys and wind this morning. Buoys 2.3 and 2.0 from the SSW and the wind was E@5. All the ingredients for good sesh. Got to the lot, no one around and the CJ flag was offshore. Got down to the beach, saw a sectiony head high set and it was still offshore. Paddled out by myself, caught a couple of waves and then felt the wind shift to the SE as Dave and Brian were paddling out. It all went down hill from there as the wind picked up and shifted straight S. Caught a handful more waves, did a couple of donkeys and called it a morning. At least I got some exercise.
It was all good when I checked the buoys and wind this morning. Buoys 2.3 and 2.0 from the SSW and the wind was E@5. All the ingredients for good sesh. Got to the lot, no one around and the CJ flag was offshore. Got down to the beach, saw a sectiony head high set and it was still offshore. Paddled out by myself, caught a couple of waves and then felt the wind shift to the SE as Dave and Brian were paddling out. It all went down hill from there as the wind picked up and shifted straight S. Caught a handful more waves, did a couple of donkeys and called it a morning. At least I got some exercise.
Part of the morning crew Frank, Dave and John Ambassadors of stoke. |
My granddaughter drew a picture of me surfing She was awful generous with the hair ;-) |
Tuesday, April 22, 2014
I'm Tired, But It's A Good Tired
More of the same, only I took it pretty easy today since my arms feel like spaghetti noodles and I'm feeling my age.
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