Ouch! |
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Monday, October 14, 2013
Winding Down
Not too much on tap for us this morning. A few set waves here and there but not all
that good in between with the early high tide doin’ the swamp thing to the weekend
swell leftovers. And definitely not
worth the cuts on my feet! I took a left
off the point into the shallows where all the sharp rocks are and flicked my
board out of the wave as it closed out; I could see the dry rocks not too
far away. Tried to stay flat on top of
the water but the top of my feet got dragged over that big rock.
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