Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, October 23, 2013
A Little Bigger Than Yesterday
And 10X the crowd! Took six on the head paddling
out in the dark, then sat and waited for 20 minutes before I caught a
wave.The waves were chest to head high
and a bit lully.Gave up on the set
waves and ended up catching some fun ones groveling on the inside.I saw a Tomo Vangaurd longboard out there
today???An odd looking craft, but I
should talk, my go-to board lately has been a 5’ 10” Simmons.
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