Had to be in the office today by 8:30 for an
“important” meeting. Since I had
limited time and these long period swells are generally a little closed out I
opted for someplace close to work and with a little structure to break up the
swell. Since the tide was going to be
too low for Laguna or Scotsman’s Cove I decided to go straight to Newport. Paddled out at 38th street at 5:20;
further north looked a little too closed out. There were plenty of good lefts and an
occasional against the grain right. I
have to admit surfing Uppers all the time spoils you. Sad, but truth be told I think I only made two
out of three late take-offs. Out of the
water at 7:30 and walked into the meeting right at 8:30. Damn I’m good.
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