Forty Five Years of Surfing

Yup, first time was on my 13th birthday in 1968 and yes that makes me older than dirt. You would think that someone who has been surfing as long and as often as me would be better at this☻.  Anyway, we had a pretty fun morning today.  Water was 72, waves were chest to head high, light crowd and the wind was calm.  Spent the second half of the 3 hour session in the bay with Steve just trading waves.  I'm spent, need to sit in the jacuzzi for half an hour and then take a nap.  

The Bay was the way