Lucky

Glad I took today off and also really glad I went later in the morning after the high tide passed. Chest to maybe head high perfection.  Surfed for 3 1/2 hours with just 5-10 people in the water.   There was a period of time early in the session where the sun came out and there was no wind; I was so hot I thought I had a fever.  But when Frank paddled up and asked if I was sweating too I knew we were OK.
My arms are wasted, my face is burnt, I stubbed my toe exiting the water and I feel great!