There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Clean Conditions

Big drop in size and consistency and I just couldn’t find my groove today.  Short session, a little over an hour, as I needed to be in a meeting in Irvine by 8:00.   Paddled out at 5:40 and had to duck dive six waves on the way out, which was promising.  But after that there was a long lull.   I really only caught three decent waves, the rest were either one turn wonders or I got jacked.  Some dude took off right next to me, even after I called him off, stood up and executed a perfect 10 faceplant inches from the tip of my board; pass the cheese please.





No comments:

Post a Comment