Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, November 20, 2012
Clean Conditions
Big drop in size and consistency and I just
couldn’t find my groove today. Short session,
a little over an hour, as I needed to be in a meeting in Irvine by 8:00. Paddled out at 5:40 and had to duck dive six
waves on the way out, which was promising.
But after that there was a long lull.
I really only caught three decent
waves, the rest were either one turn wonders or I got jacked. Some dude took off right next to me, even
after I called him off, stood up and executed a perfect 10 faceplant inches
from the tip of my board; pass the cheese please.
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