Coming Down With “IT”

I was all packed and ready to go. But this sore throat/cold/cough thing that’s been weaving its way through my family finally caught up to me.  So I figured it would be best to go back to bed and stay out of the bacteria laden ocean given the amount of rain we had in the last 24 hours.

The good news is I got a clean bill of health yesterday with regards to my bout with cancer last year.  A little bit of religion goes a long way with me but I truly thank God for that! 

Anyway, Steve hit it this morning and he reports: “Kinda lumpy and funky.  Waves were waist-shoulder high, occ. head high.   Betta than nothing...hardly anyone out”.  Steve also supplied these pics:

Lucky

Glad I took today off and also really glad I went later in the morning after the high tide passed. Chest to maybe head high perfection.  Surfed for 3 1/2 hours with just 5-10 people in the water.   There was a period of time early in the session where the sun came out and there was no wind; I was so hot I thought I had a fever.  But when Frank paddled up and asked if I was sweating too I knew we were OK.
My arms are wasted, my face is burnt, I stubbed my toe exiting the water and I feel great!

Resting

Woke up tired this morning. Decided to sleep in. Dave provides today's pictures. He tells me there were some fun ones this morning while I was surfin' the pillow.

Sooooo Tired

After surfing eight days straight and especially after yesterday's three hours of perfection I had a major power shortage today.  Could hardly paddle and was definitely not at a 100% of my game. But had to go since after today the swell will taper off fast. Waves were chest to head high with a strong offshore flow. Good night, I'm taking a nap.

Weird Fog Action

Super good head high waves today with one third the crowd.  Pretty foggy too, so the pictures are not that great. Under a lot of pressure to get the Christmas decorations up, so no commentary today.

Surfing With 50 Of My Closest Friends

Word was out that there would be some surf today. I managed to get my fair share but had to work for it.

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone, eat lots of turkey, have a few cocktails, watch some football, enjoy your families and sleep in tomorrow!

Is this too much of a cliche'?

Hey! Where's my bike? 

There Were A Few Corners To Be Had

Paddled out at 5:45.  Offshore, warmer water (62), air in the 50's and inconsistent belly to chest high waves.   Not to many takers today which was a plus!  Not the most memorable session, but better than sleeping in. 

Night Train